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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.